Khüiten Peak, also known as Mount Khüiten, is the highest point in Mongolia. It is situated in the far west of the country, on the border with Russia, at the foot of Mount Tavan Bogd.

Khüiten Peak is 4,374 metres (14,350 ft) high and is the highest mountain in the Mongolian Altai mountain range. The chain of 5 mountains in the country represent 5 saints, and each mountain is named for a different saint:

  • Khuiten meaning “cold”,
  • Burged meaning “the eagle”,
  • Olgii meaning “cradle”,
  • Malchin meaning “the herder”
  • Nairamdal meaning “friendship”.

We offer you CLIMB MOUNT KHUITEN MONGOLIA. Mount Khuiten is the highest peak in Mongolia, which is located in the remote area of the Mongolian Altai region. It will be wonderful 🤩🤩

WHAT CAN YOU SEE THERE?

The magnificent peak of Khuiten is protected by Altai Tavan Bogd National Park, a haven of breathtaking beauty. Glaciated peaks, turquoise lakes, and enormous grass-covered vallies inhabited by Kazakh herders and eagle hunters make for a panorama that is spellbinding.

climb to khuiten 12

Lower down the hill, you may spot animals including lynxes, foxes, and eagles. Some green pastures are also available lower down the hill. This peak is unique in every respect because it experiences sub-zero temperatures all year.

The region is also rich in archeological sites; in fact, many examples of prehistoric man have been discovered nearby. The area boasts a high number of yeti sightings too; one trip report even claims that climbers spotted tracks while en route to climb Mt. Snow Church, which is just one valley over from Khüiten.

CLIMBING THE HIGHEST POINT IN MONGOLIA

Mongolian mountaineers climbed Khuiten Peak in 1956. In 2013, the National Geographic Society ranked it as one of the world’s top ten dangerous climbs.

climb to khuiten 10

Situated in a remote location with treacherous terrain, Khüiten Peak is one of the most difficult mountains to climb in Mongolia. Despite this, it remains a popular destination for mountaineers and hikers alike. The first successful ascent was made by a Japanese expedition in 1938.

Potanin glacier 1

Mongolia’s biggest glacier, Potanine, is highly visible from the peak, as are other summits located in Russia and China.

The climb to the top isn’t challenging by mountaineering standards, but rather it’s the journey through this remote and remarkable place that attracts most visitors. The ideal time to climb is between June and August.

Getting There

Starting Point – Ulaanbaatar

  • Your journey to Khüiten Peak begins in Mongolia’s capital, Ulaanbaatar, which is well-connected internationally by air. Flights from major cities such as Beijing, Seoul, Istanbul, and Tokyo are available.

Travel to Ölgii

  • From Ulaanbaatar, take a domestic flight to Ölgii, the capital of Bayan-Ölgii Province. The flight takes around 3 hours and is the fastest and most convenient way to reach this remote region. Alternatively, adventurous travelers can opt for a multi-day overland journey by car or bus, though this is time-consuming and challenging.

Drive to Altai Tavan Bogd National Park

  • From Ölgii, hire a 4×4 vehicle to drive approximately 200 kilometers (125 miles) to the Altai Tavan Bogd National Park. The drive takes 5-6 hours and involves crossing rugged terrain, passing through beautiful valleys, and visiting nomadic settlements.

Trek to Base Camp

  • The road ends at a trailhead near the Tavan Bogd ranger station. From here, you’ll begin a 15-18 kilometer (9-11 mile) trek to the base camp. Horses can be rented to carry supplies, and local guides are often available to assist.
Khuiten Peak climb
Khuiten Peak climb

The Climbing Route to Khüiten Peak

  1. Base Camp
    • The Base Camp is located at approximately 3,200 meters (10,500 feet), situated near the Potanin Glacier. It offers stunning views of the surrounding peaks and serves as the starting point for climbing Khüiten.
  2. Glacier Crossing
    • The route to Khüiten Peak involves traversing the Potanin Glacier, which requires proper glacier trekking gear such as crampons, harnesses, and ice axes. The terrain is icy and crevassed, so a guide is highly recommended for safety.
  3. High Camp
    • Many climbers establish a High Camp at around 3,800 meters (12,500 feet) to break up the ascent. This reduces altitude sickness risk and allows for acclimatization before the summit push.
  4. Summit Push
    • The climb from High Camp to the summit takes about 6-8 hours. The ascent includes steep snow and ice slopes with gradients of 30-45 degrees, requiring technical climbing skills. Roped sections are necessary due to potential falls and crevasse dangers.
  5. The Summit
    • Upon reaching the summit at 4,374 meters (14,350 feet), climbers are rewarded with breathtaking panoramic views of Mongolia, China, and Russia. The feeling of standing on the roof of Mongolia is unforgettable!
  6. Descent
    • The descent typically follows the same route and takes 4-6 hours. Climbers usually return to High Camp or directly to Base Camp, depending on time and weather conditions.

The Altai mountain region is a pristine example of what the world looked like during the last glacial period, which ended around 11,000 years ago. Khüiten Peak is a window into that world, and climbing it is an opportunity to feel like you’ve stepped back in time. So don’t miss out on this chance.

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