Nairamdal Peak, also known as Friendship Peak, is one of five peaks of the Tavan Bogd mountain and it marks the border tripoint between Russia, Mongolia, and China.
- The Peak towers at the elevation of 4,082 m ( 13,392 ft).
- It is located in Tsengel sum of Bayan-Olgii province.
- Geographical coordinates of the peak: N49°10’11” E87°48’43”
WHEN IS THE BEST TIME TO CLIMB THE NAIRAMDAL PEAK?
The best season to climb Nairamdal Peak is between July and September, when the weather is most predictable. If you’re looking to ascend Altai Tavan Bogd mountain, keep in mind that the climate in the region is highly volatile, with four seasons passing in one day.
HOW LONG WILL THE CLIMB BE?
We will start our expedition at the base camp, following the Potanin glacier until we reach our final destination: the northern Honog Tolgoi camp. The journey is 8 kilometers long and should take 6-7 hours.
On your way across the glacier, you will pass through various chasm zones (shown in picture attached). At certain points during the climb, you will need to use a rope to get over glaciers safely.
The distance between Base Camp and Friendship Peak is 2.1 kilometers. The climb from the base camp takes 3-4 hours. The best time to climb is between 4 and 6 a.m when the snow is frozen and you’re less likely to fall. Plus, it’ll take less time because of the firmer ground. There are frequent storms and winds in high mountain regions at 15:00 in the afternoon.
The water will rise as the air temperature rises, thus the glaciers will melt and have more water. The snow gets increasingly slippery when travelling through a ravine.
On average, the climb is 15 degrees steep and 20 degrees at its most severe part. When ascending to the peak and following the ridges, there is a high risk of slipping and sliding. Climbing is forbidden in bad weather. An experienced mountain guide will lead you on your trip.
WHAT DO YOU NEED TO CLIMB?
You will need the following special mountain gear to climb:
- ropes
- screws
- snow stakes
- radio communication
- GPS for the crew.
For personal use, you will also need:
- a sledgehammer
- ice hammer
- carbine figure 8
- asender
- prusik
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